Imitation astrakhan fur and process for manufacturing the same



G. ROMANE Oct. 15, 1929.

, IMITATION ASTRAK'HAN FUR AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed NOV. 26, 1926 e y R n r: m .H I R A Patented Oct. 15, 1929 UNITED STATES GEORGES ROMANE, OF ST. MANDE, FRANCE IMITATION ASTRAKHAN F UR AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME Application filed November 26, 1926, Serial No. 151,019, and in France November 28, 1925.

The object of my invention is to provide a fur that will imitate astrakhan, the latter being, as is well known, a fur made with still-born lambs wool offering irregular, shining, and curled loops and rings of various size and relief. M invention covers also the process adapte to permit uch a fur to be obtained.

I produce the imitation astr khan fur which is the subject of my invent'on by forming by means of a common ochet needle a web of natural or artificial c ienille, or any other-similar shiny material, suitably twisted and curled, taking care that the strands be as varied and irregular as possible. The irregular web so obtained is then secured on a suitable backing/tissue or fabric which may, according as thc strands are more or less loose, play a; part in the ultimate exterior aspect.

The accompanying drawing shows in Fig-' ure 1 a plan view of a piece of artificial astrakhan constructed in accordance with my invention, and in Fig. 2 a sectional perspective view of such piece, with some of the chenille omitted; the chenille being designated 1 and the backing 2.

The chenille to be used for making the said web should preferably be made of threads or strands of mohair or of artificial silk, of more to the quality or to the relief effect desired to be obtained, its gibbousing being more or less marked. For instance, a round chenille the diameter of which is 16 mm. revious to gibbousing would be reduced to a iameter of 6 mm. after gibbousing this 16/6 gibbousing ratio giving excellent results. By gibbousing is meant the step of turning or curling down the free outer ends of the component threads or hairs of the chenille, this step consisting in passing the chenille through a rotating tube which is kept slightly heated; and chenille, after having under- .gone such treatment, is frequently termed a chenille gibbous.

Irregularity of the web can, obtained in a number of ways.

For instance, I may form either a succession of more or less tight stitches, or a seof course, be

or less heavy section according irregularity of the work which will the more closely resemble astrakhan the greater its ir- :regularity.

Once the operation is completed I exert more or less pressure in places for the purpose of effecting a flattening which, not occurring all over the work, will here and there modify light reflections.

In order to secure the chenille to its backing, a plurality of methods may be utilized, according to one of which the attachment is obtained by gluing.

In this case an advantage will be found in using wherever possible, among other suitable glues or adhesives, an india rubber solution and in proceeding as follows:

\Vhatever the nature and the colour of the backing, the latter must first of all (provided its nature permits of it) be rid of an impurities by means of, say, a suitable so vent. After allowing it to dry, I coat either the whole or part of said backing, but small portions at a time, with the rubber solution, and then I immediately lay the chenille, regardless of its diameter and colour, on the coated surfaces while following a predetermined design that will imitate astrakhan. Said design may in certain cases consist of a photographic reproduction of real astrakhan lambskin and may either be drawn on the backing or not be drawn thereon, in which latter case it will be carried out according to the o erators fancy.

Once t e chenille has been laid on the solution, I allow the whole to dry, after which, if I so desire, I can mark or divide the chenille intosections at irregular intervals by means of a suitable cutting tool or other implement (partial burning, stamping, flattening) so as to interrupt the sinuous rows or portions at points and thereby obtain an appearance all the more like astrakhan.

In order to ensure better adherence of the chenille it may be well to load it with a weight after laying it on the solution.

Of course, the division of the chenille into sections may be effected before the solution is dry, that is to say, as andwhen the chenille is laid on.

When large surfaces are desired to be covered in a comparatively short. time, recourse may be had to a suitable mould carrying sinuous grooves representing an astrakhan design and fully or partly furnished with chenilles. Said mould, so lined, can then be applied on a suitable backing (skin, fabric, etc.) previously coated with glue and be kept thereon until thoroughly dried, or it can be removed at once if the chenille adheres sufficiently to the glue.

After the mould has been removed, division into sections, flattening, burning or stamping of the chenille may or may not be effected as desired.

As a modification, I will indicate that instead of applying the mould furnished with chenille on the glue-coated backing, the reverse operation may be done, that is to say, the glue-coated backing can be applied on the mould.

In order to ensure better adherence of the chenille it may be pressed down with a weight after being laid on the solution-coated parts.

Another method of securing the chenille on its backing is to sew it on either by hand or by any of the sewing means usually practised.'

Said chenille may also be secured by interlacing the threads of the chenille with those of any suitable mesh material (canvas, presspoint, net) that will constitute a backing.

may, again, proceed by weaving the chenille, spacing for the purpose the warp of the backing proportionately to the section of the chenille and using a ative of astrakhan.

Obviously, I can obtain reproduction of any designs by varying either the laying of the chenille or its colouring or both.

Furthermore, as will be readily understood, I can vary the effects by only partially gluing the chenille.

Fur manufactured according to my invention offers the same characteristics as real astrakhan as regards exterior appearance, feel, suppleness and strength. As to wear,'it is even better, since the two faces of the web are usable by simply turning it over on its backing. Furthermore, I can obtain very large surfaces at one make, thereby minimizing or even completely eliminating seams pattern representwhich, in real astrakhan are a cause of weakness.

Lastly I am able to obtain furs of various colours and patterns just by varying the colour of the chenille employed, producing through colour changes on one and the same surface all and any desired effects. Also, I can startv with ,white chenille, and then proceed with colouring.

I claim as my invention:

1. A process of manufacturing imitation astrakhan, comprising the steps of corcheting an irregular web of gibbous chenille, and attaching such web to a backing.

2. A process of manufacturing imitation astrakhan, comprising the steps of crocheting an irregular web of gibbous chenille, and gluing such web to a backing.

3. A process of manufacturing imitation astrakhan, comprising the steps of coating the surface of a backing with an adhesive, laying a crocheted irre ular web of gibbous chenille upon the coated surface of the backing in accordance with a predetermined design that will imitate astrakhan, and fastening together the chenille and the backing.

4. A process of manufacturing imitation astrakhan, comprising the steps of laying a crocheted irregular web of gibbous chenille upon a backing in accordance with a predetermined design that will imitate astrakhan, and fastening together the chenille and the backing.

5. A process of manufacturing imitation astrakhan, comprising the steps of laying a crocheted irregular web of gibbous chenille upon a backing in accordance with a predetrmined design that will imitate astrakhan, and gluing together the chenille and the backmg.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

GEORGES ROMANE. 

